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Inspecting a Pre-Owned Vehicle

Inspecting a Pre-Owned Vehicle





If there is a particular car that has caught your eye, and the price seems right, you must perform an inspection to make sure that you are getting what you pay for.  This means checking the body of the vehicle for damage or blemishes, looking under the hood for any signs of poor maintenance, and examining the interior for wear and tear.  Take a look at every part of the vehicle you can think of.  If you are serious about buying this used car after your inspection, still have a professional mechanic take a look at it.   If the owner of the vehicle refuses, then walk away.

Buyer Beware

Knowing when to recognize a red flag is important.  It may mean the difference between getting scammed and losing a lot of money, and knowing to go to a more trust worth seller.  One red flag to look out for is odometer fraud; this means that the mileage has been rolled back.  The car  will appear to have much less mileage than it actually does.  There are some easy ways to compare what the mileage says on the odometer and what the wear and tear indicates the mileage should be around.  If seats are sagging and warn, if pedals are well worn, or if the tires are not original or have excessive wear than the mileage should not be vary low.  If it is, than walk away form this car.

Open up the Hood

Start the inspection by opening the hood.  If the engine is shiny clean be suspicious, as this is not how the engine of a used car should look.  Make sure there are no leaks or sprays on the underside of the hood lining that would indicate a burst hose or fluid leak.  Squeeze the various rubber hoses running to the radiator, air conditioner, and other parts. The rubber should be firm and supple.  Check all fluid levels. The owner's manual of the used car will show where to look. The dipstick shouldn't leave visible metal particles on the rag, a sign of serious problems.   Melted wires, tubes, or lines, or a blackened firewall may be signs of overheating or even an engine fire.  With the engine running, listen for noises that might indicate a mechanical problem.   To check the actual engine, make sure it is cool.  Back by the exhaust pipe, feel for any tailpipe residue.  If it's black and greasy, it means the car is burning oil.   Look for puddles of gasoline, oil, coolant, or transmission fluid, as this indicates a leak.  Under the vehicle, look at the frame.  Welding suggests a damaged section might have been replaced or cut out to perform repair work. Fresh undercoating can hide recent structural repairs.  Structural components with kinks and large dents in the floor pan or fuel tank are all indications of a past accident.


The Cabin Check

If the car seems spotless it is likely it was detailed before the sale.  Just be aware that this can hide wear and tear you may not see, or may over look.  When you first open the used car’s door, take note of the smell.  A musty, moldy, odor could indicate water leak on a used car.  An acrid smell may indicate the car was used by a smoker.  Some odors are very difficult to get rid of, so if the smell really bothers you, it may not be the right vehicle to buy.  Look at every seat belt.  Frayed seat belts or ones with melted fibers (because of friction) may be evidence of a previous frontal impact above 15 mph--damaged safety belts should always be replaced.   The upholstery shouldn't be ripped or badly worn, especially if the odometer has low miles on it.   Sit in the back of the car to check for comfort and legroom.  Adjust the driver’s seat to the right setting, and make sure you can easily reach controls and can see out of the windshield clearly.  Try out the sound system. Check radio reception on AM and FM, and test the tape or CD player if possible.  Test all the lights, controls, heater and air conditioner.  They should all be in working order.  The steering wheel should rotate smoothly from lock to lock without any unusual noise or vibration.  Try all the foot pedals. They should press down smoothly without strange noises or binding.  If the car is manual, the gears should engage easily and smoothly without any grinding with the clutch fully depressed.  Manual windows should crank smoothly.  Power windows should glide.  Also take a look in the trunk or rear cargo space. Observe for any water leakage, or musty smells.


Exterior Inspection

Do an overall “walk-around." Look at the used vehicle from a distance, and up close, looking for dents, chipped paint, mismatched body panels, and chipped windows.   See if the used car is standing level. Bounce each corner up and down. If the shock absorbers are in good shape, the car should rebound just once.  Minor scratches and flaws are no cause for concern, but rust is. Check the outer body for blistered paint, which can mean rust.  Also inspect the wheel wells and rocker panels for rust.   Look down the side of the used car to see if all the panels and bodywork line up smoothly. Be suspicious of wavy panels or cars with uneven gaps between panels.  Open all the doors and the trunk to m make sure they fit tightly.  Look carefully at the windshield and windows for cracks or large dings.   Even small cracks in the windshield will worsen and lead to a costly repair.  Check the tires. Tread wear should be even across the width of the tread and the same on the left and right sides of the used car.  Uneven wear can be a sign of an alignment, steering, or brake problem.   Be sure to confirm that the spare is in good shape and that the proper jack and lug wrench are present.  With help, make sure turn signals, head lights, and brake lights are working.


Mechanic’s Inspection a Must

After your own inspection and a test drive, you will have a good idea if you should go into negotiations for this used car.  Before you commit to anything, though, you should always have a trusted mechanic perform his own inspection.  If you have not done business with any mechanic, and are unsure who to trust, look for certifications.  These insure that the mechanic has passed a nationally standardized test and is a competent worker.  He should put the vehicle on a lift and inspect the undercarriage.  He also may have special diagnostic equipment that would turn up something that is not obvious.  A thorough diagnosis should cost around $100.  Ask for a written report detailing the used car's condition, noting any problems found and the cost to repair them. You can then use the report in the negotiation with the seller.  Though the fee may seem high, it is well worth it.  A professional is much more likely to catch serious problems in the vehicle.



Don’t ever rush an inspection on a used car.  If you are not comfortable doing this, bring a friend. Performing your inspections on a potential used car in the dark or in the rain can hide nicks and scratches, as well as making worn paint look slick.  So, remember to do it in the daylight.  While your self inspection may be thorough, always bring the used car to a professional mechanic.  This process may save many extra repair bills and headaches.   If there is something that seems amiss, do not turn your head and assume that it is no big deal.  It may cost you thousands down the road, so do not pas up your chance to negotiate issues into the price of the car.